Issue
N°15
We visited Tokyo’s best shirt store
We visited one of Tokyo's best vintage shirt stores.
Issue
N°15
We visited one of Tokyo's best vintage shirt stores.
We took advantage of the summer to spend some time in Tokyo, more precisely in the Setagaya neighborhood. There, we met Kento, owner and founder of SMOG, one of the best vintage football shirt shops in Japan. Together, we went through some of his finest pieces and talked about his relationship with football kits.
I came to football through playing. I started when I was five years old and continued through high school. When I was ten, my parents gave me an Inter Milan shirt as a Christmas present. That shirt is still on display in my store.
Four years ago, we opened our first store as an American and European vintage clothing shop. At that time, the trend of wearing football shirts as streetwear had just been introduced to Japan from Europe, and we followed that movement.

I want the store to feel like a football toy box, but not a simple one. Our location in Tokyo is great, so the space isn't very large.
It's about design and history. I think older shirts are more beautiful, and I'm influenced by memories. Japanese customers tend to prioritize fit. The 90s shirts are popular because of their square silhouette. I think current shirts are too long for Japanese people, we're not very tall.
I loved wearing the Beckham 2002 England long-sleeve shirt to elementary school
Kento
That's a very good question. Japanese and Asian customers usually prefer big European clubs and legendary players. They want the famous pieces, and they lean toward the collector side. They don't wear Japanese national team shirts very often.
Europeans tend to prefer good design and their own country's shirts. I think Europeans are proud of their national teams and clubs, and they wear those as streetwear too. In Europe, wearing football shirts is more advanced than in Japan, so design is also important.
At first, it was fashion. I loved wearing the Beckham 2002 England long-sleeve shirt to elementary school. But since I started the store, the collector side has become stronger. I've seen so many shirts, and I find it interesting to compare them
It's the 90s Umbro shirts. The design, silhouette, and collar are great. But my personal favorite is the 2001-02 Inter home shirt. The snake pattern on the sides, the collar, and the yellow line on the front are perfect. Well, I guess I'm influenced by memories. :)
The cost-effectiveness of making shirts has improved, which is good for suppliers and clubs. As a result, there have been more opportunities to collaborate with famous brands and designers, which I think has made football more accessible to many people.
But the shape of the shirt, the heaviness, the fine details, they're not coming back. I think that's the way of the times. This has happened in all clothing industries, not just football shirts. It can't be helped.
I think young people feel the same way. Just like we feel when we see 90s and early 2000s shirts.
Our shop has over 10 Nakata shirts. Maybe my store has the most Nakata shirts in the world
Kento
Design alone is difficult. I think there are cycles of trends. Football shirts have elements of club history, players, events, etc. That's why they are unique.
For sale: Our shop has over 10 Nakata shirts. Maybe my store has the most Nakata shirts in the world. They sell often, so we keep getting them.
Not for sale: I have a Zanetti signed shirt on display. I'm Nerazzurro. Nothing more to say.
It would be a mix of the 2001-02 Inter and the 1997-98 Inter.

Instagram : @Smog_mikan
Japon, 〒155-0031 Tokyo, Setagaya City, Kitazawa, 2 Chome−11−15 別館 ミカン下北 東洋百貨店
With Olivier Bron and Timothée Ostermann, the “Choose Your Own Adventure” format takes an unexpected leap onto the football pitch.

Designer of the Phryge for Paris 2024, Joachim Roncin reflects on the role of mascots and their ability to embody much more than just a sporting event.